Let’s Get Loopy! DIY Loopy Hair Bow on Hair Clip

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my 4 year old, Abby, sporting a pair of loopy bows

my 4 year old, Abby, sporting a pair of Halloween-themed loopy bows

NOTE:  This tutorial creates one pair of 2.75″ loopy bows.  If larger bows are desired, cut individual ribbon lengths longer ( for example, 3″ ribbon pieces for a finished bow measuring 3″ wide)  Also, this pair of loopy bows is size appropriate for a toddler/preschooler.  If you’d like a fuller, more dense bow, add more ribbon lengths per color.  Experiment and you’ll find the right size and fullness for your intended head of hair.

Experience Level:  experience?  what’s that?

Sewing Scooby Rating:

Not applicable;  essentially you can indulge in scooby snacks like it’s New Year’s Eve while doing this project.  Well, almost…there is a lighter involved, so don’t singe any fingers or bangs.

imageimageimage…….. 🙂

Applications:

Use a loopy bow on a hair clip, party favors, attach it to a wrapped gift as a present topper, thread a piece of string through it and voila!, instant Christmas tree ornament or wine bottle decor

So.  Let’s Get Loopy…

This tutorial is easy, requires no talent, and is quick.  Right up my alley.

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THINGS YOU’LL NEED:

  • SIX 22″ lengths of 3/8″ ribbon of your choice (grosgrain, velvet, or polyester work very well…use a mix for extra texture and variety).   Use color combos for any holiday/ season, school spirit colors, a girl’s favorite colors…there’s no right or wrong here.
  • Ruler
  • Scissors
  • Thread or elastic thread (I prefer elastic thread for this project because of its “give”)
  • LONG sewing needle
  • Hot glue gun with glue stick
  • Lighter
  • Laundry spray starch
  • Small or large alligator clip (can be found at craft stores, online, Wal-Mart)
  • 4.5″ length of ribbon to line small alligator clip, or 5.5″ length of ribbon to line large alligator clip
  • OPTIONAL: 1″ square or circle of felt in coordinating color to aid in attaching bow to clip

After choosing your 6 ribbon colors and cutting your 22″ lengths of each color, make your 2.75″ ribbons pieces.  The easy-peasy way is to fold one 22″ length of ribbon in half, and make a cut.  Take those two pieces of 11″ ribbon lengths, fold them in half, and cut them…you now have 4 pieces of ribbon.

Keep going with that “fold in half and cut” game until you have 8 pieces of ribbon, each measuring 2.75″ .  Repeat this with all 6 colors of ribbon lengths.

You’ll end up with a pile of ribbon pieces that look something like this:

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1. Using a long lighter (or wood burning tool if you have one and are comfortable using it), heat seal all the ends of the ribbons to prevent fraying.

This is the most time-consuming and tedious part of the whole process.  To heat seal the ribbon ends, lightly run the flame CLOSE TO but not AGAINST the ribbon.  Do not char your ribbon ends or eyebrows;  neither will be very attractive or smell good.

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2. Once you’ve made your way through the annoying task of heat sealing all your ribbon ends, pour yourself some refreshing scooby snack of your choice.  I usually opt for  decided on a beer.  For a change.

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3. Set up your assembly line:  choose your order for colors, but don’t stress about the line-up.  Remember, the nature of the loopy bow is one of jumbled, controlled chaos.  You’re setting up 2 rows;  each row has 6 color piles.  Each color pile contains 4 ribbon lengths.  Phew;  that’s as much math as we need for this tutorial.

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4. Thread your long sewing needle and pierce one end of one ribbon length.  Get close to the edge of the ribbon without being in danger of having it rip through the ribbon.  In other words, allow yourself a modest seam allowance.

But WATCH OUT!  WHOA!  Make sure that if you’re using a ribbon with a pattern/ print, that it shows in the finished product.  For instance, if you have a ribbon piece with polka dots on one side only, make sure that the polka dots face YOU or DOWN as you pierce it with the needle.  When you create your loop, the polka dots will show right side out.  There’s a pic of that coming up, so scroll down a bit if you want a visual.

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5.  This is the super exciting part.  Better take a sip of your scooby snack to celebrate…now take the open, non-attached ribbon end and create a loop by piercing the needle (which already has one end of the ribbon on it) through it.  You now have one loop on your needle.  Hooray!

Repeat this with your next color (#2 in your line-up), and your next (#3 in your line-up), and your next…well, you get the picture.  Don’t worry if they start to fall out of a perfect stack on your needle.  Again, they all get jumbled up intentionally in the end.  Once you finish one row of your six colors–one of each–start from the first color pile and repeat until all piles of your colors are gone.

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6.  When all 24 ribbon pieces have been put on the needle, push them all the way down the needle and onto the thread.  Allow yourself some slack, so don’t push the loops all the way against the knot in your thread.  Now with excess thread on each side of your loopy bundle, tie the two ends of thread into a double knot.  Aw, let’s live a little and make it a triple knot.

It looks something like this:   P1050620

7.  Flip your loopy bow right side up, fluff it a bit, and separate or arrange the pieces until you get it just the way you want it.  See how easy that was?  And it went so quickly, I barely touched my beer.P1050623

8.  If desired, spray your loopy bow with laundry spray starch to help it maintain its shape.  (I literally drench mine, then let them dry overnight).  If you prefer a softer, less sculpted feel to your bow, skip this step.

Don’t you just feel loopy with satisfaction and a sense of accomplishment?  Me, too!  But wait, there’s more…

ATTACHING THE LOOPY BOW TO HAIR CLIP

Great.  We’re almost there and here’s the last piece of our loopy puzzle.  Get your glue gun (heated up with glue stick in place), your pre-cut ribbon, and your alligator clip.  Remember that if you’re using a small alligator clip, your ribbon piece will be 4.5″ long and 5.5″ long for a large alligator clip.

1.  Heat seal both ends of your ribbon, just as you did above.

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2.  Line the INSIDE of your hair clip with glue.  Waste no time as you place the ribbon against the glue line, putting the end of ribbon flush with the end of the clip.

My finger is on the TOP of the clip; notice the base has a slight incline.

My finger is on the TOP of the clip; notice the base has a slight incline.

It's hard to see since the hot glue is clear, but the glue is on the INSIDE/ UNDERSIDE part of the TOP prong.

It’s hard to see since the hot glue is clear, but the glue is on the INSIDE/ UNDERSIDE part of the TOP prong.

Once the inside/ underside of top prong is lined with glue, quickly but carefully place your ribbon along the glue line and press in place to dry for about 30 seconds.  MAKE SURE THE END OF RIBBON LINES UP AGAINST THE BASE OF CLIP AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

Once the inside/ underside of top prong is lined with glue, quickly but carefully place your ribbon along the glue line and press in place to dry for about 30 seconds. MAKE SURE THE END OF RIBBON LINES UP AGAINST THE BASE OF CLIP AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

3.  Now put a thin line of glue on the TOP of the top prong of your clip.  Once you do this, you’ll have the top prong completely lined with the ribbon.

Now the glue line is on the TOP of the TOP prong of clip.

Now the glue line is on the TOP of the TOP prong of clip.

This shows the clip upside down...the entire TOP prong is lined with ribbon now.

This shows the clip upside down…the entire TOP prong is lined with ribbon now.

4.  Use a couple drops of glue on the side of the clip (the part where the two prongs are joined together) and again, wasting no time so the glue doesn’t dry, press the ribbon against it, conforming to the metal curves.

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5.  You now have enough ribbon to partially line the second prong.  You don’t want to line the whole thing, as it has a better hold in hair without the full lining.  Your finished clip looks like this:

This is what your clip looks like when done.  This view is the BOTTOM of clip.

This is what your clip looks like when done. This view is the BOTTOM of clip.

6.  You have two choices here:  either place hot glue on top of your clip (along almost the whole length of the clip) and  attach the loopy bow.  Press down to set.  YOU’RE DONE!

OR…the more secure method is to take a circle or square piece of color coordinated felt (about 1″);  attach the felt with hot glue to the underside of the loopy bow.  Then draw a hot glue line almost completely along the top of the clip and attach the loopy bow to the clip.  And, you’re DONE!  I prefer this method for extra security and ease of mounting the bow to the clip, but either works.

If using a felt circle, place a dime sized glue drop on underside of bow, then attach circle.  Press firmly for 30 seconds to set.

If using a felt circle, place a dime sized glue drop on underside of bow, then attach circle. Press firmly for 30 seconds to set.

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Line top of clip with glue, then attach bow (with or without felt circle on it.  The felt circle makes it a little easier).

Line top of clip with glue, then attach bow (with or without felt circle on it. The felt circle makes it a little easier).

Bow now glued onto clip.  The felt circle is hidden, facing wearer's head.

Bow now glued onto clip. The felt circle is hidden, facing wearer’s head.

Underside view of whole bow on clip.

Underside view of whole bow on clip.

All considered, pretty easy, right?  Here are a few pics of bows of various sizes, color combinations, and materials.  (The second pic is a Christmas loopy bow in red and green velvet measuring 3″).  If you’d like to see additional loopy bow ideas, please visit my etsy store, Born To Wear Bows.  at https://www.etsy.com/shop/BornToWearBows?ref=si_shop

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Happy bow making!

Nail Art

My other obsession is Nail Art.  I have the Gellish system.  Gel nails last soooo much longer than regular nail polish. Just don’t pick at the gel or you will destroy your nail beds. It needs to be patiently soaked off! 

Here are a few pics:

IMG_0303 I love the  purple swirls 🙂IMG_0304 IMG_0305 IMG_0306 IMG_0319

The blue was actually mermaid inspired using glitter and Konad stamp for fish scale look.

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IMG_0360Im a sucker for leopard spots and glitter.

IMG_0042 Winter Holiday NailsIMG_0073Camo Nails

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This is my nail wheel. I have tried a whole bunch of different things on here 🙂

IMG_0242 IMG_0243 Accent NailIMG_0245Camo in golds and rusty rose colors. This is a combo of gel polish, foils, crystal gems  and hand painting.

IMG_0347This is an ombre matte with polka dot shiny top coat, it reminds me of rain drops 🙂

VW Bug and trip up the coast

July 29th, 2013

Jen Wrote:

Did you end up choosing little trip with Peter? Hope so!

Thanks for an Awesome time yesterday and I’m so glad you’re home!

July 30th, 2013
Nicole Wrote:

Hey Jen

No I haven’t left yet I was at VW dealership all day yesterday and bought a denim blue bug convertible!!

Peter and I went out for drinks yesterday was a lot of fun. I went to see a movie late last night so didn’t go to bed till 3 am or so lol

So not sure if I will leave today or tomorrow 🙂

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Jen Responded:

You are livin’ large, I love it!  And a cute bug convertible?  Amazing!!  I can’t wait to see it–and see you toodle-in’ around town in it!

Your last 24 hrs sounds AWESOME and I know your little getaway with Peter will be, too….where did you decide on?

You were soooo right about tension being everything…my machine is now like a totally different beast, thank goodness…it makes sewing so much easier, thanks for showing me all the tension tricks.  🙂  Question, oh wise Sewing Teacher:  now that it’s time for me to sew the rows together, how exactly do I tackle where the seams meet at the end of a block?  I’m worried that the now double amount of flannel at those points will jam the machine, no?

Hope you’re not reading this because you’re out joy riding in your new wheels….  🙂

love,

Jen

To answer Jen’s question I have a few tricks to help with the seams that meet up with cross-secting seams.  By this I mean instead of sewing your blocks together to make rows you then have to sew the rows together to make the blanket and the corner points of each block will be double thickness.  I always make sure I have a large enough needle in my machine, adjust your tension for the extra thickness of the fabric.  I pin my intersecting points right in the seam allowance where my new seam is going to be made. This way the fabric can’t shift and you should have perfect corner points. 

Seam allowances and sewing machines

July 17th, 2013
Jen Wrote:
Good morning, Nicole!

First off, you and the crew are missed…Next, Abby and I hope you’re all having a ball with your family.  🙂  How’s that tree house coming along?  Is it just awesome to be able to spend time with your parents?

Not much new stuff to report here…Cubby’s swim classes are going pretty well–better than my sewing!  I’ve had some fights with my machine and will tell you about those mishaps in person rather than bore you with that in an email.

I started to do the reversible placemats that I hope to have done soon for my Mom’s and mother-in-law’s birthday presents….my Mom gets a small table runner (more like a centerpiece–the specs look like it’s not going to be much larger than a placement but that means I may be able to squeak out more placemats).

Thought about napkins to go with them, but my fabric isn’t printed on both sides, so is that too thick to sew 2 pieces together???  I have so many questions for my sewing goddess.  🙂  I’ll send pics of all the flannel for the baby quilts and the 3 fabrics for the placemats/ table runner/ napkins on my phone after I send this.

Your company is missed!  Have a great rest of your trip!

Love, Jen

p.s.  I’m shitting my pants over this Saturday’s craft fair…I’ll take pics of my set up.

July 18th, 2013
Nicole Responded:

Hey Jen

My trip is awesome and my back has been good! I can’t wait to see everyone again! Also very excited to see how your fair goes!!! I like the cute coasters you made very nice job!! I get back the 23rd in the evening.

Ttyl

Love Nicole

Jen Responded:

I’m so glad!!  Have fun and keep that back feeling good!

I’m itching to continue with the quilt (all the squares have their sewn X’s on them), but I forgot how to do a 1/2 inch seam allowance on the sewing machine–how is it that I can’t figure that out?!  I see the 1/4″ notch to follow but not a half inch…

Do I just keep the end of the flannel along the right outer edge of the needle plate/ foot plate/ whatever that do-hicky is called???  What a novice!

Nicole Responded:

Your manual will tell you what needle position you have to be in, if you have the fabric even with the edge of your foot I think it has to be to the far left 🙂 (7)

Happy sewing

Also I have a trick I use to help me follow a certain seam allowance. Take a sticky note and attach it to the correct marking for the seam allowance you desire.  You then have a great well marked edge to follow 🙂

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July 24th, 2013
Jen Wrote:

Hi, Nicole!

I think you guys fly back today?  Or maybe yesterday?  Hope that all the travel goes well and can’t wait to see you all soon!!

July 25th, 2013 
Nicole Responded:

Hey Jen

Yes I’m back got in Tuesday night. I felt a bit under the weather today, the kids are still in Canada they come home with my parents on August 7th. How did your craft fair go? Did you so anything else? Hope you’re enjoying your machine! Can’t wait to see you again.  Hope all is well

Love Nicole

July 27th, 2013
Jen Wrote:

hold the phone….the kidlets don’t come back for another week plus????  That means Ingmar could watch Abby during a weekend time sometime soon and you and I could:

sew  a little

sew a lot

sew not at all

drink a scooby snack

drinks a couple scoobys

drink not at all…

…you get where I’m going.  It would be great to have a little time together without worrying about atrocities are happening, kid-wise!

Off to Sea World, but more soon…I hope you’re feeling better and YOU’VE BEEN MISSED!  Can’t wait to see you!

Nicole Responded:
Ya absolutely I’ll be around tomorrow my beer fridge is full I got Scooby snacks and I got a boat load of fabric! Lol call me later tonight on the phone my home number is *** **** my cell phone reception sucks!
Miss ya can’t wait to see ya!
Jen Responded:

WOOHOOOOOOOOOO!!!

Jen Wrote:

Hello, Sewing Goddess,

I can’t wait to hear all about your trip…and see all your new fabric!  I have to bring over the squares I have for a baby shower gift….I have many questions.

I tell ya, I think I may be in over my head:  in the next 6 weeks, I’ve set out (in my mind,at least) to do 2 baby shower quilts, a diaper cake for my cousin’s baby shower in Pittsburgh, 2 sets of placemats and table runners, and just last night I saw this super cute tutorial on DIY burp cloths….  http://www.designsbymeganturnidge.com/blog/?p=2114

So like a lunatic I ordered fabric from Joann’s and even though they were on sale, it wasn’t cheap and I already don’t know how the quilts are going to get done in time.  What a looney-tunes I am!

Big hugs,

Jen

Here are the burb cloths

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Here are some pics from the Great White North with Bob and Doug McKenzie. Take off eh!

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T-Shirt tutorial

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Sewing Scooby Snack Scale:

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If you have experience working with knits 2 margarita’s allowed.

If this is your first time with such slippery fabric 0-1/2 margarita allowed.

Step away from those scissors! 

The first step you need to do is wash and dry your fabric! I can’t stress enough the importance of this step! I learned the hard way and my fabric shrunk by 1/3 of its original size! Crazy Right!

Supplies needed:

  • t-shirt pattern
  • knit material
  • walking foot (please see post on walking foot)
  • machine ball point jersey needles
  • ultra fine tip pins
  • scissors
  • matching thread( or not if your going for the contrast look)
  • cutting mat and rotary cutter (optional)
  • stay tape
  • sewing machine  (serger is nice to have but optional)

Alright if you never worked with knits before you’re in for a real treat! Take your pre-washed and dryed fabric and lay it down with grain aligned and ready for your chosen pattern. I like to lay my knits on a cutting mat and place large washers on top of the pattern to keep in place. I use my rotary cutter and cut out my pieces:) Easy peasy

If you are uncertain which is the right side of the fabric then look at your edges of the fabric you will notice that they curl towards the right side of the fabric, if they happen to be ITY knits then they tend not to roll as much.  In this case the right side will have vertical rows of smooth v shaped stitches. The wrong side of the fabric will have horizontal rows of bumps (purl stitch to those of us that knit 🙂

During my design stage for this t-shirt I used a french curve and made princess seams to the front of the t-shirt.  I had an idea of having these seams on the right side of my shirt and clipping the seam to rag it as you would do for rag quilts. I like the added texture it gave the shirt.  My sleeves I did in two different colors and again have my seams to the right side and ragged.

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1. For a regular t-shirt pattern that is not pieced you will start off by cutting out all your pattern pieces (per your t-shirt pattern instructions). Make a small snip into the seam allowance of the centre back piece and the center front piece.

2. Next apply  your stay tape to one side of the t-shirt. I use fusible stay tape but there is also stay tape you sew in place.  You place this stay tape about a 1/4 inch in from the edge of your shoulder seam allowance as shown in the picture.

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3. Then serge both your shoulder seams. If you don’t have a serger a sewing machine works just fine and you can trim your seam allowance. (knit’s don’t fray).  This is where the walking foot comes in to play. A walking foot is a foot that has teeth on it just like the feed dogs on your throat plate that pulls the fabric along. Knits are very stretchy and can get warped quite easily. A walking foot helps with this problem.  I like the serger though its quick and professional looking.

Ok so here is where  I use the machine ball point jersey needles in my serger and sewing machine when working with knits. Because of the elastic that is in knit material regular needles may leave tiny holes in the fabric especially if you are working with a very thin delicate knit material. This is the same reason I use ultra fine pins when I pin my pieces together in order to sew them. Watch those pins as you are sewing or serging! 🙂

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4. After you sew any seam you press the seam to give it that crisp professional look.

5. Press your seams  to the back of the t-shirt and then top-stitched on both shoulder seams.

6. Now remember the clips we made in our center front and center back pieces? I want you to meet those two notches together and fold the neckline in half with those two notches together.  You will end up close to the shoulder seam on either end. Clip into this fold a small snip in the seam allowance. There are now 4 notches evenly spaced in the round of your neckline equal distance apart.

7. Ok the dreaded collar. I learned a super easy way! That’s what all those snips are for 🙂  Since we are working in the round because we sewed up both shoulder seams we have to make our collar in the round as well.In the round is a knitting term that means we have a piece of material that is joined together thus makes a circle.

So the first thing I do is measure the diameter of my t-shirt from seam to seam I just use my measuring tape and stand it on edge and curve it around the neckline to get my measurement. The number we arrive at we will add 1/2 inch to this number. (this is your 1/4 inch seam to sew the collar ends together).

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Now if we went ahead and sewed this up at this point the collar would not lie nice and flat against the skin because it is the exact measurement of our neckline.  So take your number and subtract 2.  This is the length you need to cut your collar. I usually cut my fabric 3 inches wide so I can just have a bit peeking out instead of a wide collar.

Once your strip is cut and seamed in the round fold your collar in half wrong sides together. Now we are going to make some clips in the collar to match the clips in the neckline. Where the seam is on your collar fold in half and clip into seam allowance a small snip, then refold so your snip lines up with the back seam of the collar. On each end of these new folds make two more snips.  You now have a collar that is in the round with 4 marked areas that are equally spaced.

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8. Pin the raw edges of your collar to the raw edges of your neckline in the round at the four notches you made matching up the notches on the shirt to the notches on the collar.  I place the seam of the collar at center back notch of the shirt.  As you sew or serge you will stretch your fabric flat and sew your 5/8 seam allowance. Just to be safe and double-check everything looks even I usually baste first.  If the collar looks great and lies flat then go ahead and serge it or (sew with a stretch stitch).

9. Press your seam collar.  Then trim your seam allowance down to 1/4 inch and top stitch. Or top stitch then trim.

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10. With right sides together ease in your sleeves on both sides. Press seams towards the arm.

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11. Sew side seams and sleeve seams at the same time.

12. If you (sew) desire you may leave the edges raw since they will not ravel or you can fold a hem under and top stitch.  I made fun and goofy sleeves to match the pirate print on her shirt so I lettuce edged the sleeves. I just did a plain old 4 thread overlock on the bottom attaching a ruffle of green. I like the rawness of the 4 thread overlock stitch showing. EYE EYE MATEY!

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Here are other  variations of the same pattern:

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